March 2nd, Creel a Batopilas: The host at Hotel Paraje del Indio said it would take 5-6 hours to get to Batopilas from Creel. I couldn't really understand why when it was only about 140Km. It took 5+ hours to do the drive! More amazing scenery and serpentine roads through mountain and canyon after canyon; I can in no way begin to explain how beautiful this part of Mexico is and no photograph will ever do it justice. You just have to come here. I kept driving slower and slower all day today, 1st because you must not take your eyes off of the road, 2nd because you can’t take your eyes off the amazing landscapes! Once I made the turn onto the road to Batopilas I began descending into the canyon for real. Switchback after switchback with degraded road conditions… for a long time I just stuck the bike in 2nd gear, shut the throttle letting gravity do all the work and using the rear break to control engine speed. There is a massive amount of construction happening on this road right now (well not today, Sunday). It will be a modern road into the canyon someday. It seemed like it was more than ½ complete but there were massive rains this past December that caused many many rock slides along the route. It’s going to be a massive undertaking to un-bury the road in many places. Batopilas is suffering because the tourism is nearly gone right now. On the route from the south, coming from El Fuerte, the bridge is washed out. The town was almost cut off but slowly the tourists are returning and access is improving. Batopilas is Magical! I am SO glad I made the trip to this community it was absolutely worth it. I’m remaining an extra day and wish I could stay a week. I’m staying at this beautiful little hotel, Casa “Real de Minas de Acanasaina”. The Host, Martin, has been so nice with tips on what to see and where to eat and information about the history of Batopilas. (Martin Alcaraz Gastelum, 649-488-0045 batopilashotels@yahoo.com)
Tarahumara children selling beaded bracelets near a small lake south of Creel
The road south of Creel was just beautiful. pictures don't do it justice.
Descending into copper canyon
The road turned to Dirt near the bottom. This is the bridge across the Batopilas river; I chickened out and pushed the moto across...
Watch for falling rocks :-O !!! the road was completely buried by landslides in several places
Hotel Casa “Real de Minas de Acanasaina” was just beautiful
March
3rd, 2nd day in Batopilas: It was nice to stay in one place
for a day. I love riding the motorcycle but it’s also tiring and at times can
be hard work. Today I was a tourista again. After breakfast, I rode the moto to
the Mission Satevo (El Santo Angel Custodio de Satevo) and took some photos. It
was constructed 1760-1764 by Jesuit Missionaries. It’s abandoned but still
majestic and just a little further down the river from Batopilas. After lunch
and a siesta, I went to the little museum about Batopilas and the Silver mine
and Alexander Robert Shepherd and la
Hacienda de San Miguel. In the late 1800’s it was an amazing silver mining
operation and there was quite a bit of wealth in the community, for a time. The
silver ore was mined and processed here and the silver bars/ingots were
transported by mule for 14 days to the city of Chihuahua. At its peak,
Batopilas had a population of about 7000, today it’s about 1500. After the
museum tour, I rode over to the ruins of the Hacienda de San Miguel. It was
interesting to walk around the grounds and try to imagine how it once was. It
is impressive to see even as it is, though many of the buildings are now just
corrals for a few cattle and mules. On the site of the Hacienda is Hotel
Hacienda de San Miguel; It would be a remarkable environment to spend some
time. Tomorrow I’ll leave Batopilas, say “adios” to Barancas del Cobre and ride
to Hildago del Parral.
Mission Satevo
The Mission in the Batopilas river valley
The Tarahumara are ever present, note the foot bridge and small home on the canyon side. This whole area of Chihuahua is called the Sierra Tarahumara
The Turret at the front gate of Hacienda de San Miguel, Home of Alexander Robert Shepherd, and the center of the Batopilas Silver Mining operations. The ore was processed on site.
The Hacienda itself
the roots of a massive banyan tree growing on a massive stone wall within the grounds
Hotel Hacienda de San Miguel
The Bridge between the Hacienda and the entrance to Batopilas.
Tuesday
March 4th, Batopilas to Guachochi: The plan today was to ride to
Hildago Del Parral. However, the canyon had a better plan for me. My intention
was to leave Batopilas the same way I had arrived but there had been another
rock slide and the road was closed. Luckily, I bumped into Cesar, Elliot and
Aida on the way out of town and they let me know of the issue. Cesar, who is a
guide in this area, said he would lead me to the road to Guachochi, an
alternate route out of the canyon heading to the east. The route was ~130Km of
dirt-road winding and climbing out of the canyon and up into the tops of the
mountains. By the time the road stopped climbing it had reached an elevation
above 8000ft. Martin had said the road was very beautiful but would take 4-5
hours to drive. He didn't lie! It was another astoundingly beautiful drive with
incredible vistas back into the canyon. I’m so glad the other road was closed. This was a perfect KLR route; I spent the whole day in first or second gear climbing very steeply at times and the KLR just worked great even with the heavy load on the tail of the bike. I
saw Cesar, Elliot and Aida several times during the day as I would stop
to take photos and they would catch up with me again. Cesar was being a Guide
to Batopilas and copper canyon for Elliot & Aida from Guadalahara.
Really nice folks and Elliot is a Mountain Biker too! Cesar's family owns the Hotel Hacienda de San Miguel within the remains of the Hacienda; He is a bilingual guide to Barancas del Cobre and the entire area (CesarGonzalezQuintero@gmail.com)
If you look carefully you can see Cesar's Durango in the center of the picture
Cesar, Elliot and Aida caught up with me frequently as I stopped to take pictures
A little community clinging tenaciously to the side of the mountain
A little spot for prayer along the shelf road
Me & Aida at the top of the canyon. Cesar, Elliot y Aida; Mucho Gusto! Vaya con Dios!
Into the mountains away from the canyon the road was carved through a thick layer of soft white rock. The logging trucks and other cars ground the roadway into a pale grey talcum powder that was 3-4" deep in places. I imagine it is similar to the surface of the moon.
You chickened out? I would think to scoot across on the moto it would be safer than walking at a slow pace. :)
ReplyDeleteFor claiming not to be a writer or photographer, you are doing a terrific job. What a fantastic adventure.
See I figured it would be better to not crash and fall to my death in the bottom of copper canyon... I did scoot across the next bridge but there were more boards intact. Thanks for the complement; I'll keep 'em coming.
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